Interesting post: I agree with much of what Alan says, particularly where signing a release is concerned. Whether the assignment is fee based or TFCD, I always make it clear that a signed release is required and provide the model with a copy of the release in advance of the session. A release is for both party's protection.
Whether I am working with an agency or independent (unsigned) model, the nature of the shoot is always disclosed and if we are shooting underwear or swimwear that is always put on the table right up front. I think model competition reality-TV shows like “Janice Dickerson,” “Make Me a Super Model,” and even “America’s Next Top Model” have convinced aspiring models that if the client or photographer calls for something during the course of the shoot which goes beyond the assignment as described and/or booked, the model is expected to comply or he/she may not work again; the reality is that there are models who have a list of "I will not dos" about which their agencies are aware and it shapes and may ultimately limit the assignments the agency sends them on. By way of example, an agency is not going to send a model who is a member of PETA to a shoot that involves fur. An agency’s obligation, first and foremost, is to look after and protect its models’ interests. When models are unsigned, they must assume this responsibility themselves.
If a model believes that something is morally not right for him or damaging to his reputation, he can indeed say no. This is one of the reasons that I am insistent with respect to disclosing the nature of and what the assignment involves upfront. I find that I get the best out of models when they are comfortable. Putting a model on the spot and/or asking him or her to do something that is beyond the scope of the assignment or potentially puts the model in the path of physical harm, can significantly alter the dynamics of the shoot. Once things get off track, it is very difficult to recover.
If I am working with an independent model for the first time, I will almost always have an assistant present, because it is often difficult to do everything myself and also because it often diffuses any initial discomfort associated with meeting and working with a stranger for the first time. I also try to make sure that the model has a comfortable space to change in and store their personal belongings. We keep the conversation light and stay away from discussing personal information. The studio or set may not be an office, but it is a work environment, and the situation demands professionalism.
For an independent model, I agree that research is fundamental. Looking at the photographer’s site is a first step, but the model needs to make sure (especially if they are looking for images to enhance their portfolio) that the photographer's style and work is consistent with the type and quality of image the model is seeking. Look at the detail in photographer’s work: Is the clothing hanging properly? Is the collar evenly spread? And, most importantly, does the photographer seem to be able to capture the essence of the person and fashion or product in a compelling way? Clothing and styling should also be discussed and addressed beforehand. A model should never be photographed looking like a guy who just rolled out of bed and indiscriminately threw on whatever he could grab. The model should spend some time talking to the photographer about his goals and objectives and make sure that they are both on the same page.
The independent model must also consider the purpose of his portfolio. When I am wearing my casting director hat, the model’s portfolio is a tool to help me decide whether or not I am going to hire a model for a job. As a photographer, I shudder every time I say this, but I don't need a 40 page portfolio with images shot like a Nike ad to cast a model. Casting directors know the difference between an image shot for a portfolio and a tear sheet. Far too much of what I have seen recently (and a growing trend over the past few years) in models’ portfolios, showcases the photographer's Photoshop skill rather than showcasing the models features. More often than not, it is the very simplest images or the Polaroids, which reveal facial structure, hair color, and ears as they really are, as opposed to being enhanced by corrective lighting and processing techniques that carry the most weight in the casting decision-making process.
One of the things an agency does for models is to “edit” their portfolios to showcase them and their body of work. By edit, I mean they sift through the images and select the ones that are representative and which are most appropriate for marketing. The independent models must learn to do this on their own. Objectivity when looking at one’s own images or work can be difficult. I often suggest that models visit different model agency Websites and check out the online portfolios of the “New Faces” to get a feel for how models new to the industry are being presented to clients and casting directors. I’ve been involved in castings where the model is new to the industry/agency and has walked in with just four images and booked a job— but they were four great images!
A piece of advice I often give aspiring male models is to make sure that they have more images in their portfolio with clothing on as opposed to body shots in underwear/swimwear or at least strike a balance. There are only so many images in your portfolio that you need in your skivvies--unless you are an underwear or parts model. And certainly for most commercial work—nudes, no matter how artistic, are not appropriate in the portfolio. Like Alan, I also advise male models who are interested in mainstream commercial work to “control” their exposure. There are models that take pictures with every photographer that approaches them or say yes to their approach and their image ends up everywhere. Again, his advice here is spot on.
As far as Model Mayhem (MM) is concerned, I have a somewhat different view of it and the online model site community than Alan does. I have used it on occasion when the client budget is tight and I need to save on agency fees, or to just expand the casting process. I have found some great models there that I've worked with multiple times. I do agree with Alan that there is an element of GWC (guy or gal with camera) there with questionable intentions, but that element predates on-line modeling sites and has been around as long as cameras have been in the hands of the general public. But you will also find many very well-known and respected photographers, and stylists among MM members. I think of Model Mayhem as a networking resource which can be of value to models, if used “smartly.” I periodically search MM, for models that might fit the bill for a prospective project and reach out to them when appropriate to see if they are amenable to working on my project and at my project rate. (Not everyone responds, but most do.) With the growth in the need for video content, on-line communities like Model Mayhem may actually offer some interesting out-of –the-box casting opportunities.
Regards, Byron Atkinson bk atkinson creative
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